Milan Fashion Week Wraps Up
It was a week of mixed messages at the Milan fashion shows, which were winding down Friday.
The wide pant-leg, which was prevalent at the New York fashion shows in early September, also dominated runways from Gianfranco Ferre to Max Mara. But at the same time, labels such as Gucci showed pant-legs that were narrow as a drainpipe that almost felt avant-garde amid the sea of super-flared pants. In jackets, even though a longer look that sometimes extended to mid-thigh was common, designers also often showed bolero-style short jackets.
And falling hemlines, another trend that popped up in New York, were also on view in Milan — most notably in the spring collection of a hemline-converted Roberto Cavalli, who hailed being covered up and keeping some parts of the body “a secret” as the new sexy. And yet, several designers continued to show some minis on the runway — most notably Gucci, whose skirt silhouette was largely very short and very poufy.
Still, some runway looks were consistent, from the re-emergence of sometimes mannish vests to the oversized clutch, being hailed as the bag shape of the season. Here’s what Milan’s designers thought spring should look like:
Who did it: Ferragamo, Emilio Pucci
The Look: Taking a cue from the 1970s, several designers showed one-piece jumpsuits or shorter, romper-style versions. Some, such as Gianfanco Ferre’s and Versace’s were drapey, wrap-style versions; Prada’s onesie had a slim, body-hugging cut done in a waffle-weave fabric, making it slightly resemble long underwear.
Who did it: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana
The Look: The big names in Milan all showed full skirts — sometimes overly poufy, often more muted in shape so the puffy silhouette wasn’t as exaggerated. These looks were always paired with snug tops that balanced out the look — Gucci’s were shown with tight patent leather jackets while Miuccia Prada showed hers with boy-beater tank tops.
Who did it: Gianni Versace, Fendi
The Look: Some dresses and blouses come with completely bare backs while others have long, vertical slits that expose skin as the wearer walks. Designer Donatella Versace says such looks work strictly at night. “During the day,” she said, “you have to wear a bra.”
Who did it: 6267, Giorgio Armani
The Look: Spring colors usually err on the side of soft and bright but this season, several directional Italian designers showed collections filled with deep, complex hues such as mossy green and aubergine. Retailers praised the look as a fresh one for spring. Ron Frasch, president of Saks Fifth Avenue, called such colors “unique and spectacular.”
Who did it: Prada, Missoni
The Look: Hand-painted looks, often featuring oversized flowers, popped up on ballgowns, coats and even casual day dresses. High-end retailers hailed the looks as an instant way to signal luxury. “It definitely ups the ante of higher-luxury,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus. “But I’m sure next season we’ll do a complete shift to things that look very machine made, very synthetic, because they’ll feel the need to get everybody excited because that’s what fashion is.”
Next up: Paris.
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